You’re invited…to The Junto’s first roundtable on fashion as history in early American life. In step with New York Fashion Week, we’ll present a new perspective daily on how the material question of “what people wore” shaped personal politics and national identity. We’re, er, bursting at the seams with guest contributors, so watch this space for a new post (or two!) every day. Thanks to a diverse array of scholars, over the next week we’ll get a better look at the sartorial identities of the enslaved; explore Native Americans’ role in the textile trade; take in the view from Benjamin Franklin’s Versailles; meet the artisans who bound up the loose threads of Atlantic World couture; and more.
To get started, here’s a brief bibliography of early American fashion history resources. With #vastearlyamerica in style, we’re compiling a list of useful fashion history resources, ca. 1500-1860s, focusing on all avenues of the Atlantic World and beyond. Please chime in with your ideas and additions for further study in the comments below. Ideas welcome!
Zara Anishanslin, Portrait of a Woman in Silk: Hidden Histories of the British Atlantic World
Linda Baumgarten, What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America
Linda Baumgarten, Eighteenth-Century Clothing at Williamsburg
Nancy Bradfield, Costume in Detail: Women’s Dress 1730-1930
Theodore Brasser, Native American Clothing: An Illustrated History
Wendy Lucas Castro, “Stripped: Clothing and Identity in Colonial Captivity Narratives,” Early American Studies 6, No. 1 (Spring 2008):104-136.
Madeleine Delpierre and Caroline Beamish, Dress in France in the Eighteenth Century
Robert S. DuPlessis, The Material Atlantic: Clothing, Commerce, and Colonization in the Atlantic World, 1650-1800
Jonathan Eacott, Selling Empire: India in the Making of Britain and America, 1600-1830
Alice Morse Earle, Costume of Colonial Times
Rebecca Earle, “‘Two Pairs of Pink Satin Shoes!!’ Race, Clothing and Identity in the Americas (17th-19th Centuries),” History Workshop Journal 52 (Autumn 2001):175-195.
Andrea Feeser, Red, White, and Black Make Blue: Indigo in the Fabric of Colonial South Carolina Life
Alison Gernsheim, Victorian and Edwardian Fashion: A Photographic Survey
Douglas Gorsline, What People Wore: 1,800 Illustrations from Ancient Times to the Early Twentieth Century
Karen Harvey, ed., History and Material Culture: A Student’s Guide to Approaching Alternative Sources
Kate Haulman, The Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America
George C. Homans, “The Puritans and the Clothing Industry in England,” The New England Quarterly 13, No. 3 (Sept. 1940):519-529.
Patricia Hunt-Hurst, “‘Round Homespun Coat & Pantaloons of the Same’: Slave Clothing as Reflected in Fugitive Slave Advertisements in Antebellum Georgia,” The Georgia Historical Quarterly 83, No. 4 (Winter 1999):727-740.
Laura E. Johnson, “‘Goods to clothe themselves’: Native Consumers and Native Images on the Pennsylvania Trading Frontier, 1712–1760,” Winterthur Portfolio 43, No. 1 (Spring 2009):115-140.
Anita Jones, Patterns in a Revolution: French Printed Textiles, 1759-1821
Jane Kamensky, A Revolution in Color: The World of John Singleton Copley
Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century
Catherine E. Kelly, Republic of Taste: Art, Politics, and Everyday Life in Early America
Carl Kohler, A History of Costume
Albert Kretschmer and Karl Rohrbach, Pictorial Encyclopedia of Historic Costume: 1200 Full-Color Figures
Diana DePaolo Loren, The Archaeology of Clothing and Bodily Adornment in Colonial America
Los Angeles County Museum of Art, An Elegant Art: Fashion and Fantasy in the Eighteenth Century
Erin Mackie, Market à la Mode: Fashion, Commodity, and Gender in the Tatler and the Spectator
Ben Marsh, “The Republic’s New Clothes: Making Silk in the Antebellum United States,” Agricultural History 86, No. 4 (Fall 2012):206-234.
Monica L. Miller, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity
Rosemary Reed E. Miller, Threads of Time: The Fabric of History: Profiles of African American Dressmakers and Designers, 1850-2003
Charmaine Nelson., Legacies Denied: Unearthing the Visual Culture of Canadian Slavery
Josephine Paterek, Encyclopedia of American Indian Costume
Sumpter Priddy, American Fancy: Exuberance in the Arts, 1790-1840
Sally Queen and Vicki L. Berger, eds. Clothing and Textile Collections in the United States: A CSA Guide
Aileen Ribeiro, The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750 to 1820
Aileen Ribeiro, Dress in Eighteenth-Century Europe 1715-1789
Daniel Roche and Jean Birrell, The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the ‘Ancien Regime’
Astrida Schaeffer, Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail
Joan Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900
R.L. Shep, Federalist & Regency Costume: 1790-1819
Kathleen A. Staples and Madelyn C. Shaw, Clothing through American History: The British Colonial Era
Jean Starobinski and Philippe Duboy, Revolution in Fashion: European Clothing, 1715-1815
Valerie Steele, The Corset: A Cultural History
Laurel Thatcher Ulrich, The Age of Homespun: Objects and Stories in the Creation of an American Myth
Margaret Walsh, “Industrial Opportunity on the Urban Frontier: ‘Rags to Riches’ and Milwaukee Clothing Manufacturers, 1840-1880,” The Wisconsin Magazine of History 57, No. 3 (Spring 1974):174-194.
Shane White and Graham White, “Slave Clothing and African-American Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries,” Past & Present 148 (Aug. 1995):149-186.
Sophie White, “Geographies of Slave Consumption: French Colonial Louisiana and a World of Goods,” Winterthur Portfolio 45, No. 2/3 (Summer/Autumn 2011):229-248.
Claire Wilcox, Fashion in Detail 1700-2000
Michael Zakim, “A Ready-Made Business: The Birth of the Clothing Industry in America,” The Business History Review 73, No. 1 (Spring 1999):61-90.
….and see that
Association of Dress Historians
NYPL Costume and Fashion History: A Guide to Resources
The Costume Institute, Metropolitan Musuem of Art
Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library
Fashion and Textile Gallery, The Bowes Museum
Clothing & Accessories, Smithsonian, National Musum of American History
American Textile History Museum
Well done! Very interesting comparisons to today’s fashions.
One more: A wise Junto reader has tipped us off to the DAR Museum’s current exhibit on post-revolutionary fashion: http://www.dar.org/museum/exhibitions/media
Terrific series, enjoying it immensely.
Speaking of “reading” fashion, here’s a very contemporary connection between one fashion item and political culture. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/10/opinion/the-ties-that-blind.html
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